Heart of Beirut: Reclaiming the Bourj

The Bourj in central Beirut is one of the world’s oldest and most vibrant public squares. Named after the mediaeval lookout tower that once soared above the city’s imposing ramparts, the square has also been known as Place des Canons (after a Russian artillery build-up in 1773) and Martyrs’ Square (after the Ottoman execution of nationalists in 1916). As an open museum of civilizations, it resonates with influences from ancient Phoenician to colonial, post-colonial and, as of late, postmodern elements. Over the centuries it has come to embody pluralism and tolerance.

During the Lebanese civil war (1975–90), this ebullient entertainment district, transport hub and melting-pot of cultures was ruptured by the notorious Green Line, which...